Wednesday, February 24, 2010

Papa-bear and Jar-bear arrive!!

Papa-Leff and Jared arrived safely to Buenos Aires today and it is great to have them here. When I woke up this morning, they had just walked into the apartment. Also, it is my half-birthday today- I am 20 1/2, which means I have exactly 6 months until I can drink legally back in the U.S. I am happy to say that the drinking age here is 18, so at least I won't have to suffer while everyone else turns 21, eh? Nevertheless, having the boys is a pretty awesome half-birthday present.

Jared and Dad were pretty dazed from their long flight (definitely know how that feels), so my Mom and I dragged them to a coffee shop to give them a caffeine buzz. It was actually my first experience with Argentine coffee and it was delicious. I ordered cafe con leche (coffee with milk), which is very similar to a latte in the U.S., except much stronger and tastier. Jared was still pretty tired, so we put him to bed and the 'rents and I walked to the MALBA (Museo de arte latinoamericano de Buenos Aires). It is full of Hispanic art from the 20th century, and included pieces by Diego Rivera, Rafael Barradas, and David Alfaro Siqueiros. It was about a 15 minute walk from our place and I got in as a student, so I didn't have to pay anything- sweet! Taking my Dad to a museum is kind of like taking a kid to a candy shop- he absolutely loves it. It's fun to go to museums with him, too because he always knows things about some of the artists and is able to explain their work and put their pieces in perspective of when it was created. Anyways, the three of us really enjoyed their collection and afterward, we decided to walk through the Japanese Garden on the way back to the apartment.

Malba - Fundación Costantini - Museo de Arte Latinoamericano de Buenos Aires

The Japanese Garden is a gated garden/park and even has a cultural center, greenhouse (we didn't go inside), cafe, and interesting sculptures. It was really beautiful and here are a few pictures we took there.


After roaming in there for awhile, we stopped for some lunch and went back to our place to see Jared. Jared and I worked out and decided to tan outside for awhile. Coming to Argentina from Minnesota, I am obviously pasty white, so I need to work on that...

Okay, I'll kind of work backwards and talk about what my Mom and had been doing up until the arrival of the Leff men:

My Mom didn't feel well on Sunday, so we both took it easy all day and caught up on emails, looked up things to do for the rest of the week, and watched the Olympics. Also, before I left for Argentina, my family and I recently found out that we have a very distant relative in Buenos Aires, named Graciela. By distant, I mean that we are like fifth cousins removed or something, so it is pretty far down the family tree! Graciela told me to contact her once I made it to BA and when I did, she invited my Mom and me over to her home on Monday. We took a cab there and she and her kids welcomed us into their home. She has three kids, a girl that is 19 (she is studying Math at the university and hopefully I'll be able to hang out with her more!), a 22 year-old daughter in Uruguay, and a 25 year-old son studying Psychology. However, the two kids that were there had plans so it was up to me to put my Spanish skills to the ultimate test (Graciela knew a few phrases in English and my Mom doesn't know any Spanish). At first, I was extremely overwhelmed; I felt like my Spanish and English were dueling in my brain, but after awhile, it went very smoothly. We asked one another basic questions (family, hobbies, work, food, travel, ect.). She teaches Hebrew at a Jewish day school in BA and has been to Israel a dozen times. She also enjoys traveling and she has actually been to Florida before and one of her siblings lives in Paris. It was so neat to connect with a someone here and she was very patient when I didn't fully understand something she said. We both knew I didn't get it when I just smiled and nodded as she waited for an answer. Her husband also joined us later when he returned home from work (he is in business). He speaks fluent English, which was especially nice for my Mom since she had to rely on me to translate earlier. Anyways, we ended up chatting for a good three hours and we had a lovely time. They were very sweet and told me to call them again. I have been studying Spanish since middle school and it was so rewarding to finally put everything that I have learned thus far and carry a long conversation with a native. It was challenging but I feel like I am starting to get a better ear for the Argentine accent, too! Here is a picture of Graciela!

On Tuesday, we booked a private tour with a billeangual guide and took a three hour tour around the city. Our tour included stops in Recoleta, San Telmo, Plaza de Mayo, Puerto Madero, Retiro, and of course, La Boca. Even though I am going to be here for a couple of months, it was a great way for my Mom to get a taste of the neighborhoods in the city. We had a really great time and our guide was wonderful. We stopped at the Recoleta cemetery and she showed us a few different tombs. We also visited Eva Peron's grave, which we didn't see the previous time we were there because it was raining, so that was cool! Here is a picture of her grave on the left. La Plaza de Mayo was neat and the mothers of los desaparecidos still march there every Thursday at 3:30 p.m. La Boca means "the mouth" in Spanish and it gets this name because this neighborhood is located at the mouth of a river. I always had kind of imagined all of Buenos Aires looking like this neighborhood, very vibrant and colorful. It is actually a very touristy barrio and many recommend that non-natives stay on the main street because it can get dangerous, particularly at night. The street was full of touristy shops, cafes, and small vendors. To top it off, we had perfect weather that day, too! I had studied a little bit about Argentina prior to this trip so it was amazing to put the names and information together and see it in person.

La Boca












A few things I have learned:
1. How to hail a taxi (very similar to the U.S. AND not as expensive)
2. Some dirty words in Spanish that I probably should not write on here. Tip: Watch Sex in the City, one of my all time favorite shows, with Spanish subtitles. Trust me, you'll learn more than you would ever want to, especially if there are a lot of Samantha scenes. . .
3. La cuenta=receipt. If you leave a tip (propina), usually leave 10%.
4. If you eat too many empanadas, you may actually turn into one!
5. How to get money at the bank.

Enjoy the pics, now off to grab a drink with the bro!

Saturday, February 20, 2010

Buenos Aires

Muchas aventuras to talk about. Good news, I am finally on Argentina time! Oh, and a few corrections from my last post--it is a three hour difference here in BA, not four. Also, I spelled "ridiculous" wrong, go me.

I thought I would fill you in on some random facts about Argentina. Buenos Aires is home to about 12.4 million people and is known as the "Paris of South America" because it is very European and cosmopolitan. I've never been to Paris, but it seems like a good description. BA really reminds me of NYC, t00, in the sense that the city is divided into a bunch of neighborhoods, has an insane subway system (that I need to figure out), and has scores of crazy, one-way streets (where cars do not like to stop for pedestrians). We are currently staying in Palermo, which is full of cool shops, fun places to eat, and spacious parks. Funny side note: Palermo is divided into a few subsections and two of them are called Palermo Hollywood and Palermo Soho! My Mom and I have been trying out different cafes for lunch and getting food at a local grocery store for most of our dinners.

Here is a neat view from the balcony of our apartment












First meal

Funny story from our first lunch: When I was ordering our drinks, my Mom told me that she wanted iced tea. I thought, "Crap! How do you say that in Spanish?" So, I decided to describe it as best as I could and told the waitress that I wanted tea with ice (te con hielo). She smiled and seemed to understand and I was feeling pretty good about it....well, when she brought it to the table, it was hot water with a tea bag AND ice! I felt so silly, but I guess it worked. So, does anyone know what the word for "iced tea" is? At least when I ordered the empanadas, I didn't get a pig's foot or something gross.
Empanadas are like a small fried pastry typically filled with meat or vegetables and are oh so delicious.
http://twogirlsgrille.com/yahoo_site_admin/assets/images/empanada-main_Full.338215651.jpg

Some pictures from today....
Biblioteca Nacional












Inside the Cementerio de la Recoleta

We walked to another neighborhood today called Recoleta, which is very close to Palermo (maybe 20 minutes). We hunted down the popular cemetery there and also passed by some neat parks and monuments. The Cementerio de la Recoleta is home to the city's past elite, including past presidents, military heroes, and of course, the rich and famous. Evita Peron is buried there but we didn't find her grave. That place was huge, as it did take up a whole city block and was kind of confusing inside. It was beautiful, though! There was a market in a large park near the cemetery as well, so we poked around there for awhile.


The Leff gals on their Recoleta adventure!












After resting at the apartment for about an hour, I met up with my friend's boyfriend (who is actually studying in BA for the semester) at a shopping center near us and we took the subte (subway) to the obelisco de Buenos Aires. It is huge monument and attracts many tourists and I guess it is a destination for sports fans when they have a big win to celebrate! During the summer, there are free concerts every weekend and we went to the last one. They played awesome music and we saw a live tango performance.

Live music









Some things I like about BA so far:
1. Empanadas, duh.
2. The way it is broken down into sections and I still have so many things to see.
3. The beautiful parks and monuments.

Random things:
1. You think drivers in New York are crazy? Come to Buenos Aires, they do not like to stop for pedestrians. I am SO glad I won't be driving here.
2. Some of the avenues are nine lanes across!
3. There was a girl on the subway, singing and she had a sign taped to her that said, "I am fucked up and I can sing." Yep, welcome to Buenos Aires.

Thursday, February 18, 2010

Yo tengo chicle

I have finally arrived in Buenos Aires! My Mom and I flew out together and our connections were great- no problems, so that was awesome. We caught a 7:30 pm flight out of Atlanta to Buenos Aires and arrived here around 7:30 am (Argentina time). So basically, that flight was a little over nine hours and we lost four hours with the time difference. LONG day! I didn't sleep at all on that flight and I am exhausted. I am going to try to stay up til 8 or 9 tonight so I can get used to being on BA time.

When I boarded the plane in Atlanta, there was a boy, maybe around 17 years old, sitting in my assigned seat. I told him in English that I needed to get into that seat and he just moved over. His brother/friend were in the aisle across from us, so they chatted as the remaining passengers boarded. I tried listening to their conversation and I found it difficult to grasp their accent- it seemed slurred and rediculously fast. Anways, his brother (I think) asked the boy sitting next to me, "Tiene chicle?" which means "Do you have gum?" He didn't, but I did in my purse and offered it to him. They all looked bewildered and the boy next to me said, "You speak Spanish?"

Since my parents, brother, and I are going ot travel together for a few weeks, we are renting an apartment through VRBO (virtual renter by owner). Its sweet- this guy has an apartment in BA and rents it to people throughout the year. It is great for us because we will be able to cook some of our meals here and its in a great location. Well, I'm going to go walk around the neighborhood and hunt for some empanadas- ciao!

Tuesday, February 16, 2010

I leave tomorrow!

Well, I can't believe that I leave tomorrow...it used to seem like I had so much time when break first started. I am actually all packed up too, woo! I managed to squeeze all of my clothes, shoes, etc into a medium sized suitcase and then a few books, computer, and a change of clothes into my carry-on (pack for backpacking).

The past few days, I have been gathering last minute things and packing/repacking. My Mom was making fun of me because I kept taking small things out of my suitcase to make sure I don't go over the weight limit.

Anyways, I am going to watch some more Olympics and hopefully get some sleep tonight. I don't know how much t.v. I'll be watching in BA, but hopefully I won't miss the figure skating because its one of my favorite events to watch. Next time I write, I'll be in Argentina-AHH! Ciao, everyone.
-Abs